The first meal I cooked was a boil a bag rice packet with a sauce of tomato and meat sauce. I added garlic, salt, pepper, and maybe some oregano. It was good but it was my first attempt at cooking.
My next attempt was spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce. I went to the market and bought an onion, and 7 small tomatoes. When I got home I realized I didn’t really have a pot to cook the sauce in so I improvised and decided the skillet (which is a little deep) would have to do. My only pot was being used for the past. I sliced the tomatoes and diced the onion. I threw a little oil in the bottom of the skillet, added the veggies and began with the spices. I used Maggi poulet (chicken bouillon), garlic powder, salt, oregano, and fresh piement (small, spicy green peppers). I let it all sautee in the oil and used a spoon to smooth the tomatoes out. It was delicious! And typical American, it was a very fast dish. The women here spend all day making their meals and I was in and out (including eating time) in half an hour.
To make a good sauce it is important to find quality vegetables which can sometimes be hard to do. I have a refrigerator which makes it easier to keep veggies but there are some things that just don’t last long. If I buy in Niamey where it is easy to find great quality fresh food it has to survive the HOT bush taxi ride back to Kollo. I ended up with tomato paste in my bag one day. In Kollo’s ecogar you need to go early in the morning or just after the 4 o’clock prayer to find really good food. It also helps to find a vendor who will let you hand pick the ones you went. Some ladies just toss your amount into the bag. I am NOT a fan of that method. Why buy tomatoes that you can’t even use? For the annassara (white person) sometimes it is also necessary to send a Nigerien to do your shopping. I have experimental proof to back up my statement. One day, I asked for 100 CFA of tomatoes. Just after I left, my friend Bachir bought me another 100 CFA worth and his bag was much fuller than mine. Not everyone does this and I am a very loyal shopper, which also helps. By going to the same person they come to know your expectations and sometimes they even give you cadeaux (gifts).
Another favorite dish of mine is tuna pasta (when I can afford or have received tuna in the mail). I get the water boiling and put the pasta in. While the water gets hot I chop half an onion and place it in oil. I season with garlic and Maggi arome (sort of like soy sauce) In the 7 minutes it takes to cook the pasta I sautee the onions until they’re golden. I mix the tuna with garlic powder, poultry seasoning, and one slice of Laughing Cow cheese (think Velveeta texture). I put the pasta in a bowl, throw the tuna on top, and then finish with the onions and oil. I mix it all together with a little salt and yet another fast, easy, and delicious meal.
Chocolate is a relative term. One day (after receiving a bag of Reese’s PB Cups from Shiree and co.) I tried to think of a way to make a dessert. I had some Kuli Kuli (powdered peanut resin) and a wave of genius crashed over me. I mixed 100 CFA of Kuli Kuli with 9 spoonfuls of Milo chocolate powder (the closest I have to cocoa powder). I crushed 10 sugar cubes in my mini mortar. I added 4 spoonfuls of powdered milk. I added a dash of oil and about ¾ a cup of water. I had really only intended to make the dough moist enough to form into balls but the amount of water was an accident. The result was somewhat like brownie batter so I put it into a Tupperware container and put it in my fridge. It tastes almost like a brownie and when it freezes it sort of has the texture of fudge. I also plan to try on making it the text time on the stove. Maybe it will be more like pudding. I hope to find or receive some vanilla extract for the next batch. My neighbor kids beg me to make this all the time and I usually do. It’s so easy and I like it too. I’m going to try and make it so I can actually freeze it completely into bricks.
Another item I make on the regular that my neighbors also love is juice. When I am in Niamey I buy Foster Clarks strawberry powder. The former volunteer always bought lemons (which look like limes) from a vendor. He wanted to sell them to me but when I first started buying I didn’t know what to do with the lemons. I finally found a suitable bottle and I juiced them all at once so they wouldn’t go bad before I could use them. Now the kids like to help my cut and juice so the process is much faster. Now in a liter bottle I add lemon juice, the strawberry powder, and fill with water. Shake, chill, and serve.
Friday, November 28, 2008
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Ay Ga Ba Leemu Haari, Walla
In non work related news things have been going relatively well despite slowly losing my group of friends to Niamey. Nasser is at school, Bachir is going to be a Gendarme, and Ridoune is continuing school while he waits for the Douane (military). Ridouane was especially hard for me because I never expected him to leave. He was one of my first friends in Kollo and certainly the closest. We even referred to each other as twins. He is the spirit of Kollo and the village even feels a little different. He had a cell phone boutique in the market and it makes me sad each time I pass by (walking or by bike) and no one is sitting out front. Because he was there, the whole Fada would come and hang out. It’s where I went every day as soon as I left work.
But we got to celebrate big before he left. I threw a party at my house last Saturday (this was coincidentally before we knew when he would leave) and all my friends came. Even Nasser came in from Niamey and as of Sat. night I am officially his girlfriend. So cute… My neighbor Hennett came over and helped me prepare the food. I made tuna pasta and spaghetti. I have perfected making tomato sauce in a skillet (I’ll blog ALL about food later). Nany and Talit came and helped clean but they were sad that it was an all adult party this time. But I promised them that the next night would be just for them and I would even make my much desired chocolate.
People started arriving after the 8 o’clock prayer. Ridouane and Moctar were the first to arrive. My neighbors came over too. There’s Mohammed who is 21, Moussa who is 17, Omar who is 15, and their friend Hayatou who is 16. I had talked to Nasser and wasn’t really clear on whether or not he would be able to make it in. The food didn’t take as long to prepare as I imagined so we decided to start eating before it got much colder. It was kind of ironic that the only non-nigerien was the one eating with her hands. Basically I only had so many forks and spaghetti is hard with only a spoon. But when I pointed this out it made everyone laugh.
Of course just as the food was finished Nasser called and said they were here. He came with his best friend, his brother Issaka, and another guy from our Fada whose name escapes me everytime I see him. But they did get to try some of the chocolate I made so it wasn’t all a loss. Nasser was the last to leave and I was sad to see him go. But Tabaski is right around the corner and he should be in town for the fete (celebration).
The next morning was when I found it my twin would be leaving me. I spent the morning hanging out with him while he did his laundry. After awhile I went home because he had things to do. It was Sunday so I decided to walk around our market for awhile. Market is so general but there are 3 in Kollo. The first is the everyday market which stretches along the main road and into the ecogar (motorpark). The second is the Friday market which is in Kollo Zongo and about 5km from me. I’ve only been once and it was intimidating. I didn’t even really market when I went. I just drove through with my neighbor in his car en route to the river. The third is our smaller Sunday market which is right across from my inspection. Even that market makes me a little anxious but I am getting a hang of finding what I want and being able to bargain for it. I usually take Nany with me to help with vendors who don’t speak French.
Before the night was over I biked over to the boutique and bought one last leemu hari for me and Rido. We ate to our health (a little inside joke that I really don’t remember how it started). Saying goodbye to him was so hard and I felt like crying. I could tell he was going to really miss me. I found out later that he told all our friends that they were not allowed to let me stay by myself for more than two nights in a row and that they had to go visit me if they didn’t see me around the village. Moctar actually did come to visit me and it was really nice. After night falls I don’t leave INRAN. I don’t like walking or riding along the main road with all the bush taxis who fly during the night.
But we got to celebrate big before he left. I threw a party at my house last Saturday (this was coincidentally before we knew when he would leave) and all my friends came. Even Nasser came in from Niamey and as of Sat. night I am officially his girlfriend. So cute… My neighbor Hennett came over and helped me prepare the food. I made tuna pasta and spaghetti. I have perfected making tomato sauce in a skillet (I’ll blog ALL about food later). Nany and Talit came and helped clean but they were sad that it was an all adult party this time. But I promised them that the next night would be just for them and I would even make my much desired chocolate.
People started arriving after the 8 o’clock prayer. Ridouane and Moctar were the first to arrive. My neighbors came over too. There’s Mohammed who is 21, Moussa who is 17, Omar who is 15, and their friend Hayatou who is 16. I had talked to Nasser and wasn’t really clear on whether or not he would be able to make it in. The food didn’t take as long to prepare as I imagined so we decided to start eating before it got much colder. It was kind of ironic that the only non-nigerien was the one eating with her hands. Basically I only had so many forks and spaghetti is hard with only a spoon. But when I pointed this out it made everyone laugh.
Of course just as the food was finished Nasser called and said they were here. He came with his best friend, his brother Issaka, and another guy from our Fada whose name escapes me everytime I see him. But they did get to try some of the chocolate I made so it wasn’t all a loss. Nasser was the last to leave and I was sad to see him go. But Tabaski is right around the corner and he should be in town for the fete (celebration).
The next morning was when I found it my twin would be leaving me. I spent the morning hanging out with him while he did his laundry. After awhile I went home because he had things to do. It was Sunday so I decided to walk around our market for awhile. Market is so general but there are 3 in Kollo. The first is the everyday market which stretches along the main road and into the ecogar (motorpark). The second is the Friday market which is in Kollo Zongo and about 5km from me. I’ve only been once and it was intimidating. I didn’t even really market when I went. I just drove through with my neighbor in his car en route to the river. The third is our smaller Sunday market which is right across from my inspection. Even that market makes me a little anxious but I am getting a hang of finding what I want and being able to bargain for it. I usually take Nany with me to help with vendors who don’t speak French.
Before the night was over I biked over to the boutique and bought one last leemu hari for me and Rido. We ate to our health (a little inside joke that I really don’t remember how it started). Saying goodbye to him was so hard and I felt like crying. I could tell he was going to really miss me. I found out later that he told all our friends that they were not allowed to let me stay by myself for more than two nights in a row and that they had to go visit me if they didn’t see me around the village. Moctar actually did come to visit me and it was really nice. After night falls I don’t leave INRAN. I don’t like walking or riding along the main road with all the bush taxis who fly during the night.
Schools
This past week I started observing in the schools. The whole process before hand was stressful. My counterpart told me I should write a letter of intent to the school directors. After three (frustrating) drafts mostly due to the lack of a computer and the fact that I had to handwrite everything, I finally gave my letter to my counterpart. Thursday when I went to my first school I was surprised to find that they hadn’t received my letter. But I knew the school director and he was fine with letting me get started right away although I assurred him I could come back another day.
I observed in two classes for an hour each. It was interesting, and now hard to explain, that the schools were so similar and yet so different from my experience in America. First I’ll start with some similarities:
*The teachers have curriculum books which they teach from.
*They have established lesson plans that are on display in the class (although I’m not sure they do this weekly as is done in most American schools).
*The classrooms are decorated, they have desks and blackboards (at least in these classes)
*The students must ask permission before leaving the room.
*The teacher lectures and then the students respond back to questions.
Now some differences:
*When the students want to respond they all snap, wave their hands, and shout “ma madame, ma madame”. It was a little overwhelming.
*There is a lot of recitation incorporated into the lessons.
*Boys and girls segregate themselves almost all the time.
So far I have gone to three schools. The first was a normal example of a primary school, the second was the Kindergarden (by far my favorite but I am a little biased), and the third was the Experimental school where they teach primarily in Zarma rather than French.
I took some great videos which I will soon attempt to put on Youtube or Facebook but I’m not counting on much because this is Niger and the internet is slow and most of the time ay sinda suuru (I don’t have patience – for you non Zarma speakers).
The time I spent in the schools helped me get over some of the frustration I had been feeling. I really like being social but I felt like there wasn’t enough for me to do at work. Helping my counterpart is one thing but it wasn’t making ME feel productive in my mission here. From observing I have started kicking around some long-term project ideas:
- A resource library for teachers on subjects such as pedagogy, communication, discipline and rewarding, and interdisciplinarity.
- A literacy project that would help kids learn Zarma and French as primary and once they have reached a certain level they can begin English. I would want to incorporate peer tutoring and counseling into the projects with a team of Nigerien teachers as the main facilitators.
- A children’s arts and culture center. The kids of Kollo are very expressive and they don’t have many outlets for that. I would like to offer art, music, and drama classes and then have bimonthly exhibitions for the kids.
I observed in two classes for an hour each. It was interesting, and now hard to explain, that the schools were so similar and yet so different from my experience in America. First I’ll start with some similarities:
*The teachers have curriculum books which they teach from.
*They have established lesson plans that are on display in the class (although I’m not sure they do this weekly as is done in most American schools).
*The classrooms are decorated, they have desks and blackboards (at least in these classes)
*The students must ask permission before leaving the room.
*The teacher lectures and then the students respond back to questions.
Now some differences:
*When the students want to respond they all snap, wave their hands, and shout “ma madame, ma madame”. It was a little overwhelming.
*There is a lot of recitation incorporated into the lessons.
*Boys and girls segregate themselves almost all the time.
So far I have gone to three schools. The first was a normal example of a primary school, the second was the Kindergarden (by far my favorite but I am a little biased), and the third was the Experimental school where they teach primarily in Zarma rather than French.
I took some great videos which I will soon attempt to put on Youtube or Facebook but I’m not counting on much because this is Niger and the internet is slow and most of the time ay sinda suuru (I don’t have patience – for you non Zarma speakers).
The time I spent in the schools helped me get over some of the frustration I had been feeling. I really like being social but I felt like there wasn’t enough for me to do at work. Helping my counterpart is one thing but it wasn’t making ME feel productive in my mission here. From observing I have started kicking around some long-term project ideas:
- A resource library for teachers on subjects such as pedagogy, communication, discipline and rewarding, and interdisciplinarity.
- A literacy project that would help kids learn Zarma and French as primary and once they have reached a certain level they can begin English. I would want to incorporate peer tutoring and counseling into the projects with a team of Nigerien teachers as the main facilitators.
- A children’s arts and culture center. The kids of Kollo are very expressive and they don’t have many outlets for that. I would like to offer art, music, and drama classes and then have bimonthly exhibitions for the kids.
Friday, November 21, 2008
But I've Never Eaten Spam Before...
All I can say is THANK YOU for all the packages. This last month was kinda rough and there was a three week stretch with absolutely no mail (not your fault). Luckily, I just received four packages and about 7 letters. I got packages from my brother, friend Shiree, Aunt Lisa, and Grandpa. I will try Spam for the first time in my life. I am responding as fast as I can but I have started observing in the schools so I am FINALLY busier. Also, I was running out of money (in my village, not in general) and I am finally in Niamey and will be able to afford stamps once again.
Unfortunately, since I last wrote I have joined the bacteria club. It was three days of utter misery and followed up by a nice case of haemorrhoids (sorry if that's too graphic for some). But my mantra in Niger is A sinda taali, babu layhi which means No problems (said in both Zarma AND Hausa for extra emphasis ... and too amuse my villagers). In the past month I have really felt at home in Kollo. I have a great group of friends who I see on a daily basis. My best friend in Kollo is named Ridouane, affectionately known as Big Head. He is my Nigerien twin and that's what we call each other. He has a boutique in town and I go there after work to hang out and talk and laugh. Through him I have met more and more people my age. The other night I even had a volunteer friend and 3 Nigerien friends over for a party at my house. I am having another one tomorrow night. A boori! Sadly, my twin will be leaving soon to join the Duanes (like military).
I have been trying for weeks to upload newer photos (slowly but surely it is coming along). I haven't been to Niamey in awhile but when you need to go to the doctor/bank, you need to go. I also got a cat today. I had a puppy ... for 2 days ... but discovered that having a dog in America is much easier than having a dog in Niger for multiple reasons. 1) people are afraid of dogs 2) I'm never home!! 3) dogs are dirtier. My cat's name is Chai (formerly Mr. Chapeau). He is black and white and utterly adorable. It's nice to have such an independent animal. But it's only been one day so we'll see how it goes. If I don't like it I have a neighboring volunteer who will take him. I think it will work out.
Like I mentioned above I started observing in the schools. I was having a rough week at work dealing with being compared to other volunteers and feeling like I didn't have the skills to contribute yet. But when I was observing I felt so much more empowered. I want to work on a resource library for teachers that will go over pedagogy and interdisciplinary studies as well as multiculturalism in school. I also want to work on a literacy project. There is a great interest in learning English but if I do a literacy project French and Zarma will be primary and once they have met the targets then they will start English. I also want to do a children's art and culture center with art classes and showcases. We'll see...
Unfortunately, since I last wrote I have joined the bacteria club. It was three days of utter misery and followed up by a nice case of haemorrhoids (sorry if that's too graphic for some). But my mantra in Niger is A sinda taali, babu layhi which means No problems (said in both Zarma AND Hausa for extra emphasis ... and too amuse my villagers). In the past month I have really felt at home in Kollo. I have a great group of friends who I see on a daily basis. My best friend in Kollo is named Ridouane, affectionately known as Big Head. He is my Nigerien twin and that's what we call each other. He has a boutique in town and I go there after work to hang out and talk and laugh. Through him I have met more and more people my age. The other night I even had a volunteer friend and 3 Nigerien friends over for a party at my house. I am having another one tomorrow night. A boori! Sadly, my twin will be leaving soon to join the Duanes (like military).
I have been trying for weeks to upload newer photos (slowly but surely it is coming along). I haven't been to Niamey in awhile but when you need to go to the doctor/bank, you need to go. I also got a cat today. I had a puppy ... for 2 days ... but discovered that having a dog in America is much easier than having a dog in Niger for multiple reasons. 1) people are afraid of dogs 2) I'm never home!! 3) dogs are dirtier. My cat's name is Chai (formerly Mr. Chapeau). He is black and white and utterly adorable. It's nice to have such an independent animal. But it's only been one day so we'll see how it goes. If I don't like it I have a neighboring volunteer who will take him. I think it will work out.
Like I mentioned above I started observing in the schools. I was having a rough week at work dealing with being compared to other volunteers and feeling like I didn't have the skills to contribute yet. But when I was observing I felt so much more empowered. I want to work on a resource library for teachers that will go over pedagogy and interdisciplinary studies as well as multiculturalism in school. I also want to work on a literacy project. There is a great interest in learning English but if I do a literacy project French and Zarma will be primary and once they have met the targets then they will start English. I also want to do a children's art and culture center with art classes and showcases. We'll see...
Sunday, November 2, 2008
The Colors of Niger
The colors of Niger ... After a day revisiting my family in Hamdallaye I boarded a bus headed to Niamey. I was sitting half on the floor - on one of the wheel coverings that sticks up into the bus to be exact. I was zoning out when I realized how much color and life there was around me. A group of Fulani men boarded the bus. They were wearing blue and black but it was their head coverings that stuck out the most. There are no gender rules when it comes to color in Niger. One of the men was wearing a pink and black scarf wrapped around and tied above his forehead. He has cords of green and purple, braided, that fell down his back. The women sitting around me were all wearing colorful pagnes (the wrap skirts) Each one with a different pattern ... most of them not necessarily matching but still managing to look like they all belong together.
Outside, the sand is getting deeper and it is harvest time. The green that was abundant when I arrived is slowly starting to disappear. The days are hot but the nights are cooler. I slept outside for the first time in a month and a half. It was beautiful - despite the giant and noisy crickets that invaded (and even a few got inside) the mosquito net.
Outside, the sand is getting deeper and it is harvest time. The green that was abundant when I arrived is slowly starting to disappear. The days are hot but the nights are cooler. I slept outside for the first time in a month and a half. It was beautiful - despite the giant and noisy crickets that invaded (and even a few got inside) the mosquito net.
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