Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Life in a Plastic Bag




I find it funny how many things require plastic bags in this country think clear plastic, no zip locks. For example I literally had one day where everything I ate or drank came from a plastic bag. Breakfast - yogurt in a bag (not my favorite but it was free) beans with mayo and bread (because I went back to the inspection rather than eating it there I was forced to eat out of the bag because there were no utensils or bowls to be found) Lunch - egg sandwich carried home in plastic bag. Leemu hari (Nigerien popsicle in which you bite a corner off the bag and push the icy juice through). Dinner was kudu ku (sweet potatoes) which I bought in the market and then made into hors d'oeurves (think Nigerien potato salad).

Saturday, January 3, 2009

Tolerance in Niger

Tolerance is a tricky concept. The Nigerien people are constantly telling each other (and me) to "kala suuru" or "say hankuri" which in Zarma and Hausa mean "have patience". What then is tolerance and where is the line between patience and tolerance? Loosely, I can understand tolerance as having the patience and fortitude to accept others, no matter how different they are.

This how reflection started a few weeks ago when a good friend of mine (http://www.sheswhy.org/) asked me about the state of Special Education and Disability services in Niger. From a concrete standpoint, there wasn't much to work on. I did some research and found a report from the US Department of State (http://www.state.gov/g/drl/rls/hrrpt/2003/27742.htm) Under the section of persons with disabilities the report states:

"The Constitution mandates that the State provide for persons with disabilities; however, the Government had not implemented regulations to mandate accessibility to buildings, transportation, and education for those with special needs. Societal discrimination against persons with disabilities existed. Observers reported that many persons with mental disabilities were rejected by their families due to the stigma surrounding mental illness in the country. "

To almost every extent this is still true. There is a stark contrast between Niamey and where I live in Kollo (which in all American standards is not much less than a suburb of Niamey) In the city you see many a person in wheel chairs which actually look like hand pedaled bicycles. There is no obvious attempts for accessability. The roads are hard for cars to travel on and side walks are merely lots of sand that are difficult for the able bodied to trudge through.

In Kollo, the most often seen disability is the "fou(le)" are mentally ill. There is most certainly a stigma to mental illness and most of it stems from ignorance and the conflicting beliefs as to what actually causes mental illness. I have a few personal examples of my experience with the mentally ill in Kollo. The first is of a woman I see every day. She lives outside, wears the same pagne (wrap skirt) everyday and is usually seen talking and laughing to herself or searching through the Ecogar (motorpark) for food. One time I was walking home and she followed me screaming "Ca va, Ca va?" I was a little alarmed more by how loud she was screaming into my ear. A man passing told me to be careful because she thought my bag was food and then he got inbetween us and kicked sand at her. I told him that wasn't necessary and that I could handle myself. A few weeks later I was sitting with a group of friends and I was drawing. The woman was across the street and for whatever reason I am always drawn to this particular woman. I started sketching her. Someone asked me why I would ever want to keep that picture as a memory. I explained to him that just because one person doesn't see beauty or life in another person doesn't mean that it doesn't exist.

Another time I was followed by a young woman in the market. She didn't talk to me but stayed close behind me. I was with my neighbor kids and they were scared to death. They told me to give her money and she would leave me alone. I told them that everything was okay and that they didn't need to worry. They had such fear for a person that it was hard for them to understand. I explained to them in French that I didn't have a reason to fear her because I understood that's how she was born and after I understood that I wasn't scared.

Now for some positive experiences. When I was observing in the schools I paid special attention to see if there were students with disabilities and, if so, what kind of materials were they given to aid the learning process. The second school I visited started off much like the first. They start the day with recreation time where the students go outside and run. One girl sat out because her right leg was a bit shorter which caused her to limp. Most of the time she sat with nothing to do. The teacher then gave her a job of collecting all the other student's snack money. While it gave her something to accomplish, afterwards she went back to doing nothing but watching.
In the class she was very confident and the teacher called on her many times and her answers were always correct. There was little that she couldn't do in class.

I'd be very interested to talk to some teachers about their exposure to pedagogy relating to mental and physical disabilities. For now all I can do is observe and impart my perspective whenever the oppurtunity arises.

Holidays in Niger

I’ll admit that I wasn’t very enthusiastic about the holidays. There’s no snow, it’s hot, my iPod was broken which means no Christmas music. I felt like a Nigerien grinch. Not really … that’s just for effect. BUT, I received a package from my family full of XMas goodies, including a small tree. When I got back to Kollo that night my sisters (this is how I refer to the daughters of my neighbor, Cheikna were beyond excited. My sisters include Messara (25), Henett (17), Talit (12), and Nany (9). It was Nany and Talit who were the ones helping me set up and decorate the tree. We looked through old magazines to find pictures of Christmas-y things and then taped them to the wall behind the tree. It turned out really cute. Now that I have a camera again I will take pictures before I take it down. It was still three weeks until Christmas but I constantly fielded questions about what kind of festivities equate Christmas in America.

The week of Christmas I received two packages. One from my dad contained a replacement iPod (his old iPhone) and the other was XMas gifts from my Aunt Vicky. Unfortunately the customs agents already did the honor of unwrapping the present but there was still enough wrapping to keep the gift hidden from its recipients. She also sent a gift for me which I’ll admit, I did not wait for. But hey, it’s my house, I do what I want! P.S. Aunt Vicky, if you’re reading this, the bracelets are VERY much the style here and you don’t know how many times I’ve had to refuse women who ask for them.

Christmas Eve I celebrated with my Fada. It’s not quite the same as the Boy’s Club in Hamdallaye but it’s fun. The Fada consists of Cheikna’s son Mohamed, our neighbor Hayatou, and their school friends. It was actually pretty cold so we decided to go to my house and they could prepare the neibit (the staple of every fada – it’s rice and beans with a tomato, onion, and oil sauce … served with Tonko which is crushed red pepper) outside of my house. I was having fun but it really hit me that I wasn’t at Grandpa’s house and I didn’t make my cottage potatoes. When Hayatou mistook the sugar for salt I felt a little better after laughing my head off.

Christmas morning I went to church and celebrated with our group. After church, Henett and I prepared the gifts. I divided Vicky’s 40 gold bracelets saving 3 for me, 10 for the girls and 3 for Maman Cheikna. I went to the market and bought two decks of playing cards as my gift for the boys. I taught Henett how to gift wrap and then we went to their house to deliver their gifts.