This has been one of the busiest and most tiring weeks of my Nigerien life. My dad and brother, Andrew, arrived in Niger around (my guess) 4 AM on Tuesday. My neighbor, Cheikna, and I had come from Kollo to meet them at the airport. We decided to drive into Niamey around 9 PM so we could eat dinner and be ready. Cheikna underestimated how tired he would be so after we ate we ended up in a parking lot behind a friend’s house, me “sleeping” in the car and him on the ground between two cars with my mosquito net attached to their hoods. Unfortunately for me, the mosquitoes were out in full force. I haven’t been bit so bad since my first night in Kollo (last September).
Finally, at 5 AM I finally saw my brother’s little mohawked head. Customs is crazy slow but they were in Niamey. I forgot to mention how bummed I was by Air Morocco changing their flight so they had to spend to days in Paris rather than with me. We pulled into Kollo a little after the first prayer call and just before the sun had completely risen. Omar and Boubacar helped take their bags off the roof of the car and we sat down. I was giddy since (they were here) they had brought me so many goodies aka … beef jerky, popcorn outlet Columbus mix, toys, tuna, all kinds of stuff. I let dad get some sleep and I took Andrew with me, by bush taxi, to Niamey to exchange their money.
Lucky for Andrew we got cabine (the front seat of the bush taxi … with the driver). He didn’t have to sweat next to a complete stranger. Andrew’s hairstyle proved to be quite the attraction. We stopped to take on some passengers and I greeted two women who were staring at us annasaras (white people). One of the ladies asked me what I was doing with a Foolani (a tribe in Niger). Apparently, both fulans and Touaregs have Mohawks. I nicely told them it was no Fulan, it was my brother. They had a great laugh.
Niamey went off without a hitch. We got a city cab to the bank and I showed him the grand and petit marches. We exchanged the money and walked next door to Amendines for some pain au chocolat. We stopped at score for some drink mixes and Gouda cheese …. I had hot money in my pocket so I had to indulge myself a little, right? The bush taxi ride back to Kollo was the exact opposite experience. We were crammed all the way in the back sweating like crazy. We made it back to my house and Andrew crashed immediately on my couch … We didn’t hear a peep from him for the next 5 hours. My boyfriend, Moctar, stopped by and brought lunch for us. It was spaghetti with sauce and 2 huge chickens. It was delicious and so sweet of him. He really liked my dad and they got along great despite the language barrier.
After naptime we walked all the way to Moctar’s house to meet with his family. Moctar even saw us on our way. He was going to buy drinks for us and he passed me on the motorcycle. I told him if he caught us again on his way back that I wanted him to take Andrew on the motorcycle since he’d never ridden one before. Sure enough, just as we were passing the mosque, Moctar showed up. Dad and I kept walking to the house … man it felt much further away with the sun beating down on us. But at least the crazy man had stopped following and shouting at us. When we all met up we watched TV and chatted with Moctar’s dad … I translated. They were both falling asleep but there were no problems. When it came time to go Moctar offered to take us back by motorcycle. I told him not to worry about me and my brother but that he should just take my dad back. He refused so and Andrew and I took a seat outside waiting for our turns. This is why I love this man. He’s so considerate. I can’t imagine how much gas he used up … but I insisted on repaying him (he wouldn’t let me so a few days later I sent him the amount of gas money in the form of cell phone credit insisting it was from my dad).
I told my dad not to eat too much since we were going to my neighbor’s (Cheikna) house for lunch. They made niebe which the typical rice and beans dish. We ate and brought some back for the sleeper. One thing about Niger and hospitality – you will NEVER go hungry when you are someone’s guest. In fact you will be fed so much for your first meal that it will become increasingly different to eat ANY subsequent meals. Just ask Dad and Andrew for verification. I had planned fari masa and sauce for dinner but due to a communication error we now had TWO dinners planned. My friend Hayatou didn’t understand that I said the next night we were coming to his house so his dad rushed out and bought everything for his wives (yes, he has two) to prepare. I felt bad not eating some of the fari masa even though it would still be good in the morning so Dad and I went and each had two. It was delicious and I know that in twenty minutes my dad and Andrew would be suffering from some serious gastric issues. Hayatou’s family went all out for us. Korba Korba, macaroni with sauce, tea, coffee, coke, fried sweet potatoes, chicken!
I’m a bad daughter! I forgot to warn them about the food issues and how to say they were full and be serious. So, as I was hiding in my little corner with my now empty plate, Hayatou’s dad was scooping more and more onto their plates. Finally, after coke, leemu hari, and coffee we rolled ourselves back down the street to my house. I almost prayed for vomit to ensue so that my stomach would feel better. No such luck but I popped some Tums and was alright.
The next day we went to my inspection. On the way I stopped so we could chat with one of my English speaking friends. They loved their Niger experience but I think they wished they could have talked more with everyone. But luckily language barriers don’t stop interaction possibilities …. Greetings and handshakes are huge here. Andrew was fascinated by that concept. We brought popcorn and toothbrushes for my coworkers and then continued on to my counter part’s house. Again we ate so much. They brought us egg sandwiches … silly me I thought this was the lunch … it was just the appetizer. They made us sweet potato fries and chicken (the theme for the week, apparently). Luckily the fries were Andrew’s favorite meal. Before lunch was served we played my favorite card game – huit americains (think uno/crazy 8’s).
Again, they were so full and Abdou’s house is so far that I decided to take them home by bush taxi. Andrew and my dad got cabine and I sat in the back. It wasn’t even close to full. That night we took it easy and ate at Cheikna’s house. Omar was so excited to meet my brother. The poor kid kept coming over but it was always when we were resting. But he took Andrew to go play soccer with him and Boubacar. The only downside to having guests that brings presents are all the unlucky people that don’t receive the gifts … so many people came knocking at my door.
Andrew wore the bubu (men’s long shirt garment) that I brought for him complete with his pink prayer cap. He looked really good. Unfortunately, the one I bought for my dad was too small. When we got to Cheikna’s Maman even put Andrew in a turban and me in a sahari (the Touareg women’s wrap dress).
Wednesday night we went to the river with Cheikna. I had planned to take the kids too and go in a canoe. Well, the kids had pissed Cheikna off so much with their fighting that they were now banned from the trip so it was just the four of us. My dad didn’t want to get in the canoe so my brother and I set off. Unfortunately, the men were not as good at moving the ship as the first man had been. I thought we were going to tip twice. Luckily, we didn’t but we did hit some sandbars. I didn’t realize the water would be that shallow almost in the middle of the river (especially the day after it rained).
Thursday was the most laid back. We didn’t even leave INRAN (my neighborhood) until 5PM. We had lunch at Moctar’s sister’s house. She lives down the street from me and right next to Hayatou. She served them a plate and didn’t force them to eat which they seriously appreciated. She even let us watch her wedding video. That night we ate at Cheikna’s again but this time it was only me. I bought sweet potatoes and meat for them and I told Maman that I’d be the only one eating the maca. Hayatou came over and watched American Dreamz with us. Andrew and I couldn’t sleep so we wended up talking until 2 AM.
At 640 the next morning the car from the inspection arrived (early) to take us to Hamdallaye to visit the training site and my host family. I had planned on spending the night with them but my host dad surprised me and said we’d be sleeping on site in the infirmary where there’s air conditioning. I think Hamdy was my favorite part of the trip. The town is so much quieter and all the people I needed to see came to me. I was so happy to see my host brother, Ismael, back from school in Mali. He’s even planning a visit chez moi in Kollo. We hung out under the hangar and had pop and tea. The tea was too strong for my dad and brother but I drank for them.
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