Sounds of Niger

So - I started to write a list of song for my brother and I figured others might also be interested to, walla:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgrnVbVI6qQ
(windi windi - kaidan gaskia p.s. most of this video is filmed in niamey so youll actually see places i walk past when im there)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNP8xzknq58
(download the regular version cuz its better its Could You Be Loved - Bob Marley)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3zdIbhhrWA
(Allahou Akbar - Kaidan Gaskia)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yL8ULXTcq5s
(Girma, Girma - Faty Niger. This was probably the first song I heard in country and it was always in my head)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnT-uo0s6Pk&feature=related
(This is the soap opera I watch every Mon-Thurs night ... I don't like the video because its set to This Kiss but you get a little taste... I also found clips but they're from the original show which is in Portugese and not French)

A Death on the Road

This morning was a very strange morning. Not in the sense that anything felt wrong but when I think back to the events of the morning, I begin to realize how much of a plan there really is in this life. Ridouane messaged me last night saying he was in Kollo but would be at a bapteme and unable to see me since I was leaving for Niamey. The next morning, I woke up later than planned and I got going with my bags to pick up some papers from the inspection before heading to Niamey. Boubey, a young Zarma man, passed me with his donkey cart and asked me if I wanted a ride into town. I had never used this mode of transportation before and even though it was a little slower I accepted his offer. I saw some of my neighbor kids and they even rode along with us. In the market I saw my counterpart who was supposed to bring me the papers. One of the little girls ran to the car he was in, retrieved the papers, and ran back to me in the cart. I reached the inspection, took a photo, thanked Boubey and made me way back to the road, past the Mosque to find a bush taxi.

I looked up and who else did I see but Ridouane! I was soooo excited. He must have seen me from across the street but I had no idea. He told me that he had forgotten something at his house which is why he wasn't already at the bapteme. I had left early knowing I wouldn't see him yet we ran into each other. Fate can be so sweet ... but also so cruel. After making plans to meet up in Niamey later that night he helped me with my bags into a taxi.

The ride was going smoothly. I chatted with a neighbor and listened to a borrowed iPod since mine is broken. When we were just a little bit away from the Libore payage our taxi pulled off onto the side of the road. I couldn't see much, just cars all off the road. The boy who takes money (Hausa's refer to them as road dogs) was blocking my view since there were no open seats. But we stopped and all I could hear were men around me thumbing their prayer beads rapidly (clink, clink, clink) and whispering "Allah Ahkbar" (God is great in Arabic). They stopped completely and the boy opened the door. I looked out and saw a boy laying beneath a taxi. The taxi was all too familiar. It was the same one I see at least twice a week in Sahara (the neighborhood behind the inspection). I had even taken this taxi once. A crushed motorcycle lay to the right of the taxi. The boy was covered with a sheet, probably borrowed froma woman aboard the taxi.

Never in my life have I seen blood spilled but here I was faced with it for the first time. I felt sick to my stomach and tears welled in my eyes. I refused to let them be spilt too. The men descended and prayed. I stayed close to the car, trying not to luck, but as most of us often are, oddly fascinated. The rest of the ride to Niamey was in complete silence. Everyone seemed spell bound by the finality of death and the unique, unknowningness of fate and life. As to be expected, when face with finality, you start to mull over how special your life is. With time, I hope I think about this image less and less (my thoughts have been haunted all morning) but I don't want to forget it.

Updated Care Package List-ish

So I had an amazing list written out but it's sitting on the floor in Kollo and my parents haven't posted it yet so look for updates but here goes (this is all stuff you can send at any time)

* Magazines (Star, InTouch, US Weekly, People, Cosmo) Don't worry about duplicates because I cut out pictures etc.
* Jack Link's Beef Jerky (any flavor really is delicious)
* Blue/Black Bic pens (pens here suck)
* Scotch tape or double sided tape
* Jelly Belly Jelly Beans (sours, graham cracker, margerita)
* Swedish Fish
* Jolly Ranchers (hard or gummy)
* Orbit Peppermint gum
* Ramen Noodles (chicken, beef, oriental)
* Graham crackers
* Nilla Wafers
* Saltines
* Pistachios (salted)
* Trail mix
* Idohan Instant Mashed Potato mix (I think with parmasean cheese)
* Dry soup mixes
* Drink mixes (gatorade glacier freeze, lime, grape, Propel lemon or grape, crystal lite iced tea with lemon)
* Pudding mix
* Skittles
* Nail Polish (white!!! also clear!!!)
* foot scrub
* AAA and AA Batteries
* Tootsie rolls
* rice krispies treats
* Golden Grahams cereal
* Fruity Pebbles cereal
* Cracklin Oat Bran cereal
* Fruit Loops cereal
* Maple n brown sugar oatmeal
* Sweet and salty Almond granola bars
* Granola bars in general
* Children's toys (i.e. slinky, yoyo, bouncy balls, jacks, anything cute and cheap from walmart... i have a lot of kids in my neighborhood ... by kids I mean free time haha)
* Crayons
* cute magnets
* Mix cds (ipod is broken and neighbors let me borrow their cd player)
* Ranch mix packets (spicy kind is also good)
* spray bug repellent
* any old playstation (original) games you have laying around
* oreos
* honey roasted almonds
* candy canes
* ANY candy really (if you think it might melt ... please ziplock it)
* playtex tampons (plastic applicators please girls)
* any instant boxed meals that you can do with a stove and that dont involve butter or milk (random but i eat the same things every day)
* parmasean cheese
* velveeta mild mexican cheese (ziplock this)
* cross stitching thread (all colors)
* yarn (all colors)
* jiffy pop popcorn
* butter flavoring powder (it exists)
* slim jims
* doritos (dont care if they get crushed because i will eat the crumbs)
* peanut m&ms
* nutty bars
* decks of cards
* twizzlers
* individual tissue packs
* pads with wings
* macaroni and cheese (velveeta shells and cheese too)
* razors without lotion strips
* books (anything from the popular section at walmart or meijers is usually what i like) im into fiction and i tend to be into comedy/romance/or muder mystery stuff
* pretzles (esp sourdough)
* mascara
* small battery operated fans (if you can find them)
* board games (candy land, junior monopoly, trouble, sorry, yahtzee)
* squirt guns, balloons
* scrapbooking materials (books and paper and dbl sided tape)
* weight watchers choc pb bars (also good are the power bar anything with choc and peanuts)
* zattarins red beans and rice
* boil a bag rice
* TUNA
* choc/strawberry poptarts
* parmasean basil wheat thins
* triscuits
* cheese pb crackers (little snack pack things)
* kazoos
* corn bread mix (for when im at the hostel)
* carmel
* sweet, shredded coconut
* reeses pieces
* gummy worms
* trolli sour eggs
* starbursts

Cooking in Niger: Some Recipes and Tips

The first meal I cooked was a boil a bag rice packet with a sauce of tomato and meat sauce. I added garlic, salt, pepper, and maybe some oregano. It was good but it was my first attempt at cooking.

My next attempt was spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce. I went to the market and bought an onion, and 7 small tomatoes. When I got home I realized I didn’t really have a pot to cook the sauce in so I improvised and decided the skillet (which is a little deep) would have to do. My only pot was being used for the past. I sliced the tomatoes and diced the onion. I threw a little oil in the bottom of the skillet, added the veggies and began with the spices. I used Maggi poulet (chicken bouillon), garlic powder, salt, oregano, and fresh piement (small, spicy green peppers). I let it all sautee in the oil and used a spoon to smooth the tomatoes out. It was delicious! And typical American, it was a very fast dish. The women here spend all day making their meals and I was in and out (including eating time) in half an hour.

To make a good sauce it is important to find quality vegetables which can sometimes be hard to do. I have a refrigerator which makes it easier to keep veggies but there are some things that just don’t last long. If I buy in Niamey where it is easy to find great quality fresh food it has to survive the HOT bush taxi ride back to Kollo. I ended up with tomato paste in my bag one day. In Kollo’s ecogar you need to go early in the morning or just after the 4 o’clock prayer to find really good food. It also helps to find a vendor who will let you hand pick the ones you went. Some ladies just toss your amount into the bag. I am NOT a fan of that method. Why buy tomatoes that you can’t even use? For the annassara (white person) sometimes it is also necessary to send a Nigerien to do your shopping. I have experimental proof to back up my statement. One day, I asked for 100 CFA of tomatoes. Just after I left, my friend Bachir bought me another 100 CFA worth and his bag was much fuller than mine. Not everyone does this and I am a very loyal shopper, which also helps. By going to the same person they come to know your expectations and sometimes they even give you cadeaux (gifts).

Another favorite dish of mine is tuna pasta (when I can afford or have received tuna in the mail). I get the water boiling and put the pasta in. While the water gets hot I chop half an onion and place it in oil. I season with garlic and Maggi arome (sort of like soy sauce) In the 7 minutes it takes to cook the pasta I sautee the onions until they’re golden. I mix the tuna with garlic powder, poultry seasoning, and one slice of Laughing Cow cheese (think Velveeta texture). I put the pasta in a bowl, throw the tuna on top, and then finish with the onions and oil. I mix it all together with a little salt and yet another fast, easy, and delicious meal.

Chocolate is a relative term. One day (after receiving a bag of Reese’s PB Cups from Shiree and co.) I tried to think of a way to make a dessert. I had some Kuli Kuli (powdered peanut resin) and a wave of genius crashed over me. I mixed 100 CFA of Kuli Kuli with 9 spoonfuls of Milo chocolate powder (the closest I have to cocoa powder). I crushed 10 sugar cubes in my mini mortar. I added 4 spoonfuls of powdered milk. I added a dash of oil and about ¾ a cup of water. I had really only intended to make the dough moist enough to form into balls but the amount of water was an accident. The result was somewhat like brownie batter so I put it into a Tupperware container and put it in my fridge. It tastes almost like a brownie and when it freezes it sort of has the texture of fudge. I also plan to try on making it the text time on the stove. Maybe it will be more like pudding. I hope to find or receive some vanilla extract for the next batch. My neighbor kids beg me to make this all the time and I usually do. It’s so easy and I like it too. I’m going to try and make it so I can actually freeze it completely into bricks.

Another item I make on the regular that my neighbors also love is juice. When I am in Niamey I buy Foster Clarks strawberry powder. The former volunteer always bought lemons (which look like limes) from a vendor. He wanted to sell them to me but when I first started buying I didn’t know what to do with the lemons. I finally found a suitable bottle and I juiced them all at once so they wouldn’t go bad before I could use them. Now the kids like to help my cut and juice so the process is much faster. Now in a liter bottle I add lemon juice, the strawberry powder, and fill with water. Shake, chill, and serve.

Ay Ga Ba Leemu Haari, Walla

In non work related news things have been going relatively well despite slowly losing my group of friends to Niamey. Nasser is at school, Bachir is going to be a Gendarme, and Ridoune is continuing school while he waits for the Douane (military). Ridouane was especially hard for me because I never expected him to leave. He was one of my first friends in Kollo and certainly the closest. We even referred to each other as twins. He is the spirit of Kollo and the village even feels a little different. He had a cell phone boutique in the market and it makes me sad each time I pass by (walking or by bike) and no one is sitting out front. Because he was there, the whole Fada would come and hang out. It’s where I went every day as soon as I left work.

But we got to celebrate big before he left. I threw a party at my house last Saturday (this was coincidentally before we knew when he would leave) and all my friends came. Even Nasser came in from Niamey and as of Sat. night I am officially his girlfriend. So cute… My neighbor Hennett came over and helped me prepare the food. I made tuna pasta and spaghetti. I have perfected making tomato sauce in a skillet (I’ll blog ALL about food later). Nany and Talit came and helped clean but they were sad that it was an all adult party this time. But I promised them that the next night would be just for them and I would even make my much desired chocolate.

People started arriving after the 8 o’clock prayer. Ridouane and Moctar were the first to arrive. My neighbors came over too. There’s Mohammed who is 21, Moussa who is 17, Omar who is 15, and their friend Hayatou who is 16. I had talked to Nasser and wasn’t really clear on whether or not he would be able to make it in. The food didn’t take as long to prepare as I imagined so we decided to start eating before it got much colder. It was kind of ironic that the only non-nigerien was the one eating with her hands. Basically I only had so many forks and spaghetti is hard with only a spoon. But when I pointed this out it made everyone laugh.

Of course just as the food was finished Nasser called and said they were here. He came with his best friend, his brother Issaka, and another guy from our Fada whose name escapes me everytime I see him. But they did get to try some of the chocolate I made so it wasn’t all a loss. Nasser was the last to leave and I was sad to see him go. But Tabaski is right around the corner and he should be in town for the fete (celebration).

The next morning was when I found it my twin would be leaving me. I spent the morning hanging out with him while he did his laundry. After awhile I went home because he had things to do. It was Sunday so I decided to walk around our market for awhile. Market is so general but there are 3 in Kollo. The first is the everyday market which stretches along the main road and into the ecogar (motorpark). The second is the Friday market which is in Kollo Zongo and about 5km from me. I’ve only been once and it was intimidating. I didn’t even really market when I went. I just drove through with my neighbor in his car en route to the river. The third is our smaller Sunday market which is right across from my inspection. Even that market makes me a little anxious but I am getting a hang of finding what I want and being able to bargain for it. I usually take Nany with me to help with vendors who don’t speak French.

Before the night was over I biked over to the boutique and bought one last leemu hari for me and Rido. We ate to our health (a little inside joke that I really don’t remember how it started). Saying goodbye to him was so hard and I felt like crying. I could tell he was going to really miss me. I found out later that he told all our friends that they were not allowed to let me stay by myself for more than two nights in a row and that they had to go visit me if they didn’t see me around the village. Moctar actually did come to visit me and it was really nice. After night falls I don’t leave INRAN. I don’t like walking or riding along the main road with all the bush taxis who fly during the night.

Schools

This past week I started observing in the schools. The whole process before hand was stressful. My counterpart told me I should write a letter of intent to the school directors. After three (frustrating) drafts mostly due to the lack of a computer and the fact that I had to handwrite everything, I finally gave my letter to my counterpart. Thursday when I went to my first school I was surprised to find that they hadn’t received my letter. But I knew the school director and he was fine with letting me get started right away although I assurred him I could come back another day.

I observed in two classes for an hour each. It was interesting, and now hard to explain, that the schools were so similar and yet so different from my experience in America. First I’ll start with some similarities:

*The teachers have curriculum books which they teach from.
*They have established lesson plans that are on display in the class (although I’m not sure they do this weekly as is done in most American schools).
*The classrooms are decorated, they have desks and blackboards (at least in these classes)
*The students must ask permission before leaving the room.
*The teacher lectures and then the students respond back to questions.

Now some differences:

*When the students want to respond they all snap, wave their hands, and shout “ma madame, ma madame”. It was a little overwhelming.
*There is a lot of recitation incorporated into the lessons.
*Boys and girls segregate themselves almost all the time.

So far I have gone to three schools. The first was a normal example of a primary school, the second was the Kindergarden (by far my favorite but I am a little biased), and the third was the Experimental school where they teach primarily in Zarma rather than French.

I took some great videos which I will soon attempt to put on Youtube or Facebook but I’m not counting on much because this is Niger and the internet is slow and most of the time ay sinda suuru (I don’t have patience – for you non Zarma speakers).

The time I spent in the schools helped me get over some of the frustration I had been feeling. I really like being social but I felt like there wasn’t enough for me to do at work. Helping my counterpart is one thing but it wasn’t making ME feel productive in my mission here. From observing I have started kicking around some long-term project ideas:

- A resource library for teachers on subjects such as pedagogy, communication, discipline and rewarding, and interdisciplinarity.
- A literacy project that would help kids learn Zarma and French as primary and once they have reached a certain level they can begin English. I would want to incorporate peer tutoring and counseling into the projects with a team of Nigerien teachers as the main facilitators.
- A children’s arts and culture center. The kids of Kollo are very expressive and they don’t have many outlets for that. I would like to offer art, music, and drama classes and then have bimonthly exhibitions for the kids.

But I've Never Eaten Spam Before...

All I can say is THANK YOU for all the packages. This last month was kinda rough and there was a three week stretch with absolutely no mail (not your fault). Luckily, I just received four packages and about 7 letters. I got packages from my brother, friend Shiree, Aunt Lisa, and Grandpa. I will try Spam for the first time in my life. I am responding as fast as I can but I have started observing in the schools so I am FINALLY busier. Also, I was running out of money (in my village, not in general) and I am finally in Niamey and will be able to afford stamps once again.

Unfortunately, since I last wrote I have joined the bacteria club. It was three days of utter misery and followed up by a nice case of haemorrhoids (sorry if that's too graphic for some). But my mantra in Niger is A sinda taali, babu layhi which means No problems (said in both Zarma AND Hausa for extra emphasis ... and too amuse my villagers). In the past month I have really felt at home in Kollo. I have a great group of friends who I see on a daily basis. My best friend in Kollo is named Ridouane, affectionately known as Big Head. He is my Nigerien twin and that's what we call each other. He has a boutique in town and I go there after work to hang out and talk and laugh. Through him I have met more and more people my age. The other night I even had a volunteer friend and 3 Nigerien friends over for a party at my house. I am having another one tomorrow night. A boori! Sadly, my twin will be leaving soon to join the Duanes (like military).

I have been trying for weeks to upload newer photos (slowly but surely it is coming along). I haven't been to Niamey in awhile but when you need to go to the doctor/bank, you need to go. I also got a cat today. I had a puppy ... for 2 days ... but discovered that having a dog in America is much easier than having a dog in Niger for multiple reasons. 1) people are afraid of dogs 2) I'm never home!! 3) dogs are dirtier. My cat's name is Chai (formerly Mr. Chapeau). He is black and white and utterly adorable. It's nice to have such an independent animal. But it's only been one day so we'll see how it goes. If I don't like it I have a neighboring volunteer who will take him. I think it will work out.

Like I mentioned above I started observing in the schools. I was having a rough week at work dealing with being compared to other volunteers and feeling like I didn't have the skills to contribute yet. But when I was observing I felt so much more empowered. I want to work on a resource library for teachers that will go over pedagogy and interdisciplinary studies as well as multiculturalism in school. I also want to work on a literacy project. There is a great interest in learning English but if I do a literacy project French and Zarma will be primary and once they have met the targets then they will start English. I also want to do a children's art and culture center with art classes and showcases. We'll see...

The Colors of Niger

The colors of Niger ... After a day revisiting my family in Hamdallaye I boarded a bus headed to Niamey. I was sitting half on the floor - on one of the wheel coverings that sticks up into the bus to be exact. I was zoning out when I realized how much color and life there was around me. A group of Fulani men boarded the bus. They were wearing blue and black but it was their head coverings that stuck out the most. There are no gender rules when it comes to color in Niger. One of the men was wearing a pink and black scarf wrapped around and tied above his forehead. He has cords of green and purple, braided, that fell down his back. The women sitting around me were all wearing colorful pagnes (the wrap skirts) Each one with a different pattern ... most of them not necessarily matching but still managing to look like they all belong together.

Outside, the sand is getting deeper and it is harvest time. The green that was abundant when I arrived is slowly starting to disappear. The days are hot but the nights are cooler. I slept outside for the first time in a month and a half. It was beautiful - despite the giant and noisy crickets that invaded (and even a few got inside) the mosquito net.

Fofo, doctor?

I can't believe how much has changed over the past two years. I used to be this shy and quiet person who was afraid to put myself out there, to be seen, to make mistakes, to live. Now, here I find myself in Niger and I have no choice but to be seen. I am different than 99.7% of the population. And for once in my life, I don't (always) mind the attention.

I have just completed my first month as an official volunteer and it went amazingly fast. I remember how slow the first week in Hamdallaye was. The first three months, work is limited to integration and language aquisition. The first is no problem at all, and little by little (moso moso) my Zarma is coming along. I love the way that people greet each other here. It feels like a competition to see who can throw the greetings first and I feel lucky to be able to be a competitor now. It doesn't always come easy, but there are days when I can communicate so easily that I forget I am not speaking English. There are days I miss English. Luckily, I think I have found ALL the English speakers in my village.

The first month we were not allowed to travel outside of our posts except for emergencies. Thankfully I had none. Here's a little glimpse into my everyday, Nigerien, life.

Mon-Fri: Wake up between 6-7:30 and shower. Leave the house before 8 and before the heat really starts. I walk to to my inspection, stopping at the ecogar (motorpark) to find breakfast. ( An Inspection is similar to a school superintendent's office in the US)  Usually cicenas which are fried dough balls made from bean curds. They are like spicy doughnuts and they are delicious. At the inspection, I greet my co-workers and either read, write, study zarma, or just chat with my co-workers. I also try to make observations about their different roles. Around 11 or 12, I pass through the market area and say hello to my friends. Then I hang out for an hour or two at another bureau. There's a guy there who speaks perfect English and French (also Hausa and Zarma, but the first two are more useful for me). I get home around 2 or 3 and am usually so tired from the heat. My walk is about 1 km, so I just take a nap. When I wake up I go over to my neighbors house to play cards, watch my favorite Brazilian soap opera dubbed over in French, and eat dinner.

Sat: I use this day to go to one of my favorite coworker's house. I like them all and it's hard to split my time, but this woman and her family make me laugh like no other. I adore her whole family.

Sun: I head to my counterpart's house. Before I get there I stop at a meat vendor on the way. Ibrahim* (names have been changed) hangs out there. He's one of the most amazing men I have ever met. He's almost 60 years old. He always dreamed of studying in America. His degree is in Psychology. But he could never finish the GRE for one reason or another. So he studied in France, Germany, and Russia. Not only did he study there but he became fluent in the languages on top of his native Hausa and Zarma. Yai! He's always interesting to talk to. He looks out for me too. Today, he helped me find a bush taxi to Niamey. He's like my Nigerien grandfather.
When I finally get to my counterpart's house, his wife usually prepares dan kali (sweet potato fries) for me. She's amazing. His daughters are always excited to see me which is a pleasant surprise. I find it hard sometimes to find female friends. If they are close to my age they are usually married or uneducated and therefore can't communicate with me in French. Granted I speak baby-zarma and that is, of course, no real use to them either. We usually just play cards and kick back. My puppy's brother still lives there. It's nice to get puppy lovin since I had to give my dog away here. It was too much to handle and I am never at home anyways.

I am really loving life in Niger. I feel like I can't say that enough. I have been blessed. I really like my APCD. I feel like she really understands who I am and that goes such a long way.
People in Niamey and my village know me. It's such a cool feeling to have people remember you after a month without seeing or talking to them.

I was recently in Niamey to celebrate my 100 days in Niger. My friend from Kollo, Omar*, came to visit. He lives in Niamey and works during the week in my village. We had dinner at my favorite little buvette. We ate together and I saw a familiar face. I was pretty sure his name was Djamilou. I yelled it out and he came over. I asked him if he remembered me. Without any hesitation he replied, Faiza (my nigerien name). He gave us a round of tea and chatted with us until I left for the hostel.

The next day I was getting set to leave. I HATE bush taxis especially when I am alone and have a lot of things. I had gone grocery shopping and had 2 soccer bags full of stuff. It was also market day in my village which meant there would be lots of (full) cars. I wasn't excited about trying to find my way back. Keep in mind this was the first time finding a taxi from Niamey to Kollo. I had come from my village before but it was always the PC (Peace Corps) who took me back. First, I had to find a city taxi to the tessum (motorpark in zarma) which is located in the Grand Marche. VERY INTIMIDATING ... fyi. I crossed the street and miraculously a taxi stopped for me and accepted where I wanted to go.

Because I am generally nervous around taxis (city or bush) I try to talk with the driver as much as possible. This was the best thing in the long run. I asked him how long he had driven a taxi, where he learned French, and then we compared gas prices. I was curious why city taxies went to the village before mine but not my village. After asking how much it would cost I decided that it was for sure in my price range and he said he would take me to Kollo. I was sooo happy there would be no bush taxi for me that day, mostly because of all my bags. He stopped to look for a document, probably to satisfy the gendarmes. Even though he didn't find it, he still took me. We stopped at a gas station and he bought 3 bags of water, one for him and two for me. He was a really cool guy. He even had family in Kollo. He said every once in a while he would buy bread and have them deliver it to me. He dropped me off and we exchanged numbers. It's always nice to know a taximan. (Actually I've already used him again when I came into Niamey today) He picked me up from the tessum and on the way to the bureau I saw the Niger jersey I wanted to buy for my brother. I was a little short on cash so he helped me pay and then didn't even charge me for the ride. Like I said connections are everything. Fondo ba nooru. That's a zarma proverb that means "Relations are better than money".

Airmail Letter - Aug. 22, 2008

This letter was written 8-22-08 and received 9-6-08

A Little Glimpse into my Life

I love Niger. My favorite parts of the day can never be predicted. There are some days when I loathe the idea of having to find a cab or a bush taxi ... dun dun daa. But then there are days when you find a driver who doesn't try to get more money out of you. Or you find someone willing to take you where you need to go on the first try. I also like walking around Niamey and having vendors remember you. I ran into Ousmane who I had negotiated cell phones with for some other stagieres. He saw me as I was heading into the bank and yelled my Nigerien name out.

Last night, in search for food, we stopped FINALLY at a little stand not far from the hostel. I started chatting with a Nigerien named Jamilou. He invited me to eat with him since I hadn't gotten my food yet but I declined since I was with my friends. I told him he could come over to our table. He came over and chatted with us in Zarma and French. I'm hoping my brain will learn through slow absorption.

Today, Maria and I walked around the Petit Marche. I didn't have anything specific in mind since my post is pretty much completely furnished. I was still looking for the Niger soccer jersey for my brother. The beautiful thing here is that you can ask a shopkeeper where to look and they will actually find it, buy it, and then resell it to you. They usually get better prices too. I found a nice tapestry of the mosque in Agadez and I'm debating between sending it home and keeping it in my house. I can't wait to go to the artisan's district. I've seen some beautiful sculptures and carvings that I can't wait to invest in.

With the good things also come the unnerving things. Kids and old women will follow you begging for money. It's so hard to just say "May God bring it to you" and keep walking. The young boys will often ask for cadeaux. They are easier to deal with. You just ask for a gift in return and when they say they dont have one tell them you don't either and they usually go away.

Thursday I move to my village. I'm sure this first month will be the longest but I am excited to play games and hang out with my villagers. I love talking to people. It comes so much easier to me. Maybe it's because I have to be more creative with communication.

Je Suis Volontaire

I am now, as of 9/12/2008, an official PCV. My close of service date is 9/11/2010. I left my host family yesterday which was really hard for me. I was very attached which isn't surprising since that's how it was for me in Luxembourg. It was hard not to cry because the excitement, fear, sadness and happiness hit me all at the same time. I carried my things up to the training site and just burst into tears. Luckily my friend was there to help me smile.

I just arrived in Niamey this morning for installation. I am one of the last to get installed on Thursday so I'll be hanging out until this Thursday with some important meetings scattered throughout the week. I can't wait to start setting up my house.

It's so hard to write sometimes because everything is all jumbled in my head. The Swear-In Ceremony was at the US Ambassador's house. It was a pretty simple affair. We had three PCTs give speeches in the local languages (Zarma, Hausa, and then French). Afterwards we had dinner in Hamdy with all of the staff.

The next morning I got to learn how to use the bank. Rather than going back to the ambassador's I decided to bush taxi back to Hamdy to spend our last free day hanging out. I live in fear of bush taxi's, but the experience gets easier and easier. I found a car right away and only had to wait for about thirty minutes. Now, knowing at least a little Zarma, I found chatting more enjoyable.

I had dinner one last time with my host family and then had tea with my Baba. I hung out in the boy's club for the last time and was accompanied by Hama and Karim up to the site. I planned on staying up all night because I didn't feel like unpacking my sheets and mosquito net, but I ended up falling asleep in the refectoire. Not the most comfortable. I woke up at 4:30 when people started to break fast (it's Ramadan). Before I left Karim presented me with a certificate for the Boys Club.

It was a perfect ending.

Nigerien Wisdom

This letter was sent 8-18-08 and was received 9-2-08         

  Click on each page to enlarge image

Last Week and a Half

So things here are snowballing so fast into swear in. On the one hand I am very excited and on the other hand I am scared. I'm sad to leave Hamdy and that I won't get to see my host family everyday. There's been some days where if I hadn't had them to go home to that I would probably have considered going home. They have made all the difference in my being successful here. I'll miss the other volunteers too. It's so easy when everyone is in such a close proximity to one another. Granted, my closest volunteer is only 18k away but still ... that's not 18 feet.

This past week I spent in MY village. It was so exciting to walk along the main road and practice my Zarma greetings since that and "ay go ga dondon Zarma cine" are the only sentences I can say (that means btw "I'm learning Zarma"). Each day I went to the inspection and a different coworker took me to their home for lunch. I'm really going to fit in where I work. The atmosphere is just so laid back and Nigeriens are always joking around with one another. They love to laugh and I share that quality.

Thursday I was sick which was no fun. I felt so bad for my coworker because he felt bad that I was sick at his house. He had just got done telling me that when it rains during someones visit it is that person bringing their family luck. Then in the span of 45 minutes I had to use their latrine 4 times ... in the rain and lighting. Not to mention, at this point in the week I had just run out of toilet paper. I am resourceful and used a pad and a dryer sheet to wipe but that only worked once. Then I had to buta it ... not as hard as the first time but definitely not an enjoyable experience.

But - I do have a normal bathroom set up in my house! My house is gorgrous. I live in a gated community and I have enough privacy ... almost too much, though. I live a roughly 25 minute walk away from the hub of the city (the area surrounding my work place). That means for me to meet people I have to stay out later. I will encourage people to visit me so long as it is during daytime hours. I am also hoping to get a bike. This, I'm sure, will only contribute to the forty pounds I have already lost.

Friday I headed back to the city. My bush taxis in Kollo are pretty exceptional. It was the city taxis that gave me the most trouble this time around. I was so tired, still stick, and just wanting to get somewhere that felt safe .... funny how standing in the middle of a busy street doesn't feel the most comforting. I repeatedly flag down taxis who aren't willing to drive me to the hostel. I get in one who says he'll take me (finally) but he says for 400 cfa ... this is double the price and not realllly worth it. I get out and finally ask to go to the PC bureau. As soon as I was in the car I felt like crying. I was so relieved.

Where IS Niger, anyway?

Padded Envelope w/ Audio Tape and Digital Photo Card - August 5th, 2008

Hey, Guys!

I hope you get a kick out of this tape. I know my host kids and I had fun making it!

Here is my first photo memory card. I don't really remember what's on it, and my camera has no batteries as of this morning otherwise I would have written out descriptions. 

Please post all the photos on facebook. (You can also view these pictures on the following website: http://gallery.mac.com/docslack )

When I use the internet next I'll add captions. If you see any particularly good pictures will you print them off as 8.5x11?  I can use them to decorate my house when I get on post. (You can print them in Black and White if it's easier.) Can you also make prints at Walgreens of the pictures of me posing with people (so I can give copies to my host family).

Put any prints in ziplock bags before mailing in case of rain.

Thanks!

I love you

Jessica

AirMail Letter #3 - July 28, 2008

Dear Mom and Dad and everybody,

I'm currently in Kollo which is 30 kilometers from Niamey. I'm staying with another CYE (Community Youth Education) Peace Corps volunteer. She will finish her service just about the same time I finish my training and swear in as an official volunteer. I really want her post so I'll be trying to convince Tondi and Assalama (my CYE Coordinators), but I won't get my hopes up.

Her house is gorgeous. Luckily, most CYE Volunteers have electricity, running water, AND indoor plumbing! Her neighbor is an amazing Taureg man with a cool family which is also the appeal for me. I want that posting so bad, but they speak Zarma, and I'm being trained to speak Hausa. Like I said, I'm going to be dropping hints like mad. Staying with this Education volunteer has made me very optimistic.

You should know that I'm planning on getting a cat. She has one and I found out that I'm NOT allergic. Dogs are too hard to keep as pets here, but I need a pet (one that hunts mice will be especially nice!)

Mom, keep your intention on me getting this post. The water here is treated, and it's pretty close to Niamey in case I ever get sick and need to see the doctors at the Peace Corps clinic. (Plus there's a good vet in Niamey for my future cat!) I also like the Nigerien education counterpart that I would work with if I get this post, and I think we could work well together. There are American missionaries in the area, too.

I miss you guys, but I am loving it here.

Count your blessings every day that you have a flush toilet and a car to get around.

My first bush taxi trip will be tomorrow.

Write soon!

Love,

Jessica

(Jessica enclosed a list of "goodies" that she'd love to get in the mail from home)

O.K. guys, I know I keep asking for stuff, but it's only because I can't find it here (within my budget) AND they bring our mail to us until Swear-In (September 12th).

Some of this list is repetitive because I don't know what you've sent already. I'm on "Demystification Weekend" (we get to go and stay with a Peace Corps Volunteer that has been here for a year or longer to see what it's REALLY like) and my list has expanded. You can send me these things in a flat rate box from the post office (more bang for your buck). On top of the inside write my address on red paper. On all mail you can write "Republique du Niger" instead of just "Niger" so it's less likely to be sent to Nigeria by mistake! O.K. here goes my list:

2008-09 Calendars 

 Magazines

8.5x11 posters  

 Scotch Tape

AA and AAA Batteries 

 Crayons (in a ziplock bag)

Elastic hair ties 

 Eyeglass wipes

Colored pencils  

 small pencil sharpener

Chocolate or Peanut Butter Power Bars

Nature Valley Granola Bars

Small Packs of Oreos 

 Graham Crackers

Nilla Wafer Cookies 

 Goldfish Crackers

Children's songbooks 

 Blue Bic Pens

 Q-tips

 Pocket size French Dictionary

 Doritos

 Airmail Envelopes

 LEXAR 2GB chip for my digital camera

 Small speakers (for my iPod)

 Candy canes for Christmas

 Sudoku books

 Small packs of tissues

Update / Revision of my Mailing Address - I have a Cell Phone now

Hi, everybody!

We have been advised that some mail to Niger ends up going to NIGERIA by mistake, so please modify my mailing address to read: "Republique du Niger" instead of just "Niger". 

Thank you, thank you, thank you to everyone that has sent a letter, card or package! You have NO IDEA how much getting mail boosts my morale!

I also now have a cell phone that I can receive call on. The number is: 011-227-96-349557     The least expensive way to call is to get an international ATT phone card from Target or Wal-Mart. It lets you call for about 50¢ a minute. Keep in mind that Niger is five hours ahead of Ohio - so if you call at 5:00 pm it will be 10:00 pm in Niger.

Thanks for all the support and good thoughts!

Love,

Jessica

Air Mail    -    Par Avion

    Jessica Slack PCV

    Corps de la Paix

    B.P. 10537

    Niamey,  Republique du Niger

AirMail Letter #2 - July 18, 2008

Mom and Dad,

Hey, I hope you guys write often. I got a card from Aunt Patricia today, and let me tell you it was such a morale boost. I remember being envious of the first person who got mail. Sorry if I repeat anything - I'm writing so many letters with similar information. I think I wrote to you from Philly and I know I sent a postcard.

I've been here now for one week. I only had one bad moment. They were telling us some worst case scenarios and it triggered doubt, fear and sadness. As soon as I got back to my host family, though, and saw their smiling faces I felt better. I try to keep in mind that they told us about us worst case situations before my trip to Luxembourg last summer, too. Nothing happened to me there because I was careful.

I have yet to poop in the pit latrine (at my host family's compound). I go at the training site. Actually I only use the pit latrine at all when it's daylight because night time = feeding frenzy for the cockroaches. I know they can't hurt me but they are fast and gross.

The more I'm here, the more I realize things that I need and forgot or didn't bring enough of: Air mail envelopes, AAA and AA batteries, iPod wall charger (I brought the USB cord but forgot the charger part), an iPod solar charger, a PWR converter (same as EURO), socks, pens (blue/black), colored pencils, playing cards and  UNO cards.

The more I've talked to current volunteers (there are four here at the training site) the more wary I am of sending my digital camera memory card through the mail. I haven't filled the smaller memory card yet.

Training is going well. The first official day of training, we had a language interview one-on-one with a language trainer.  

** (Two lizards just did a lap around my feet, so now my heart has resumed beating. I can't wait for those sort of things to not phase me anymore.)**

I keep trying to think positive. I'm on top of the game .... no diarrhea yet and no bad side effects of the pills or shots.

Anyway, I scored "Intermediate-low" on my french skills, so I have eight weeks to move up to intermediate-middle. I'm thinking there will be no problem. I may get to start learning Hausa in a few weeks. Most of my host family speaks French so I'm good.

Please write letters, notes, whatever! It's such a good feeling to see mail waiting for you. Everyone envies the ones who get letters.

I'll write as much and send letters out as often as possible, because I have more letters than stamps (and money!) I just got breakfast allowance for this week, and I'm never hungry in the mornings (plus the market is on the opposite side of the training site) so I'll use that money for stamps. Market days are Tuesdays.

I live so close to the training site ... maybe a two minute walk only because it's uphill. My neighbor in the compound (where my host family's house is) is the local tailor so a lot of people stop by. 

Well, I'm running out of things to write.

I LOVE YOU GUYS!      Missing you from Niger!

Jessica         aka  "Faîza"

My Niger Mailing Address

My mailing address in Niger is:

Par Avion            -           Airmail

           Jessica Slack PCV

           Corps de la Paix

           B.P.  10537

           Niamey, Republique du Niger

Any and all mail is greatly appreciated.   The airmail postage to Niger is 94¢ for a business size envelope with a page or two.   If you have a heavier or larger envelope, have your post office weigh and calculate airmail postage.

Estimates at this time are that it may take between 10 and 20 days to arrive.

Thanks everybody!

Jessica

 

Post Card to my Brothers

AirMail Letter #1

(This letter was written 7-14-08, Postmarked 7-15-08 and received in Westerville on 7-23-08. Jessica used a 750F Republic of Niger postage stamp - about $1.47 US)

Hey there!

You guys wouldn't even believe where I live! As the plane was landing all I could see was red dirt, sparse bushes and a few buildings. As soon as we got off the plane I started sweating, but the temperature was relatively the same as Myrtle Beach.

We got through customs and loaded everyone's bags. They all made it. Tondi, the training manager, met us along with a group of ten or so current Peace Corps Volunteers. We packed into two vans and made our way to Hamdallaye. There was one paved road - on one side I saw green fields of millet; on the other side of the road was burning tires, some buildings, and lots of people. I even saw a camel.

The first two nights we slept at the training site and we slept outside. Our beds were mattresses raised on a stick frame covered by a mosquito net. The first night was perfect. The second night was too humid.

Friday we had a culture fair with all kinds of different stations. For example: rope making, a blacksmith, music and dancing, preparing millet, hair braiding and henna (I got some orange henna designs drawn on my hands.)

Dinner and lunch have been fantastic. I've had rice and beans, lamb, goat (very similar to lamb) and couscous, as well as mashed potatoes.

Saturday was host family orientation day. We had our first language lessons. I was assigned Hausa (one of the two main local languages). We also had interviews (in French) to assess our proficiency level. Once I achieve intermediate-mid in French, I will be able to focus more on learning the local language.

I am very lucky because my host family assignment is with someone that works at the Peace Corps training site. I have my own hut with a "yard" that's gated. I haven't been in my hut much because I sleep outside when it's hot. I spend a lot of time with kids because if they're older than seven they speak French.

My hut has electricity which is great because the gas lantern scares me even though they showed us how to light it. P.S. - they showed us how to save money on toilet paper ... use your hand... we will see how that goes!

I spend a lot of time in the main compound. They have a fan AND a T.V. I watched "24" and "Transformers" in French today.

The kids took me to the market so I could buy a pair of flip-flops for easier use of the douche (shower) and the pit latrine. There are seven children in my host family, but there are five or ten more in the compound.

There are lizards everywhere. When they stop, they do "pushups" and then keep going. Tons of bugs, but no weird ones yet. I had one moment when I first arrived at the training site where I doubted if this was for me but so far, so good.

It's hard finding times to write but I will as much as possible.

Love,

Jessica a.k.a. Faiza (my Hausa name)

A Glimpse Into My Pre-Service Training

My pre-service training occurs in Hamdallaye (about 20 miles northwest of the capital Niamey).

My first week:   

Sat.    7-12-08 - Intro. meeting, pre-service training overview, visit traditional chief, village tour, how to use Nigerian tool, language class, host family orientation/reception.

Tues. 7-15-08 - Host family debriefing session. REG training begins.

Sat.    7-26-08 - Demystification (Two days of visiting Peace Corps Volunteers at site)

Tues. 7-29-08 - We have to find our OWN way home using public transportation (scary but manageable).

We get a 1,000 CFA ($2.00) per day allowance.

Week 1-3: Intensive language, cross cultural, technical training, health, safety and security training.  GAD olympics, cooking, village visit, visit other PC Volunteers on site. Because I'm in the Community Youth Education program, I'll start with French language review. At the intermediate level I'll begin Hausa or Zarma (local Niger languages). If for some reason I don't pass the language exams, we have an opportunity to do a two week extensive study.

Week 4: Site placement interview, language proficiency test #1

Week 5: Site placement announcements (village visit)

Week 6: Supervisor conference, technical training

Week 7: Live in (one week spent at site, arrange MY house!)

Week 8: More Language training

Week 9: Language Proficiency final exam, administrative sessions, final evaluation, swearing in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer (September 12th)

Please write!  Love you all!

       Jessica

Hi, Everyone!

Guys, I am so excited! 

Now that I'm here I am finally proud of myself. I never took into consideration how selective Peace Corps is. But THEY chose me because I have what it takes.

I hope I hear from you guys soon. I'll write as much as possible. Keep in mind: "No news = Good News"

Love,

Jessica

Jessica is in Africa!

Hello All -

I am pleased to announce the safe arrival of the Peace Corps Niger July Training Group for the beginning of their training to become Peace Corps Volunteers.

Everyone is in good spirits, as you can see from the photo, settling in well to our training site. They are also, as I type this, experiencing their first really big African monsoon storm!

We are thrilled to have this new set of trainees and look forward to working with them over the next two years.

Cheers,

Mary Abrams

Country Director

Peace Corps Niger